![]() I cannot endorse running my car on this long-term though as it does have the dreaded Ethanol within it's mix and the problems are very real with rubbber and fuel tank linings' deterioration, - as widely commented on by other classic car users. I am going to try a half-tank of Shell's super unleaded V-Power or whatever it is called now, but only to see if their 99-RON fuel improves/removes this pinking aspect. This is because even the 97 RON Esso fuel does not have the composition of the original 4-star fuels of the early 1990's and before. Using Esso super unleaded in my TR6, (free of Ethanol at the moment and not likely to be added in the foreseeable according to Esso who have made a statement to this effect in the last year), with the 11-degrees TDC timing adjustment, (no vacuum advance on the early CP cars to worry about), there is still detonation or pinking at mid-range hard acceleration. At the moment we have anything from 5-10% known as E5 and E10. This is an attempt by Western Governments to lower the use of fossil fuels with a percentage of sustainable bio-fuel in the mix. All other brands of petrol (of either grade) use a bio-fuel additive called Ethanol, which is a harmful constituent of their fuel to old cars. However, there is now only one brand of petrolium acceptable for our older cars that does not harm the rubber and petrol tank linings. It should be noted that if wanting to fully enjoy these cars, then it really pays to use the super unleaded variant with it's higher octane rating. Whilst all the above that has been said is most relevant, if running an engine like this, (which was supposed to run on 5-star 100 RON fuel originally, with 4-star 97 RON acceptable too), then today's fuels need to be explained because there's much that is not known by everybody. This needs to be done with idling lowered a bit to avoid any action from the distributor's centrifugal weights coming into play, but normal 'acceptable' idling is around 850rpm, so lower this with the handy air intake idle-adjustment thumb-screw at the end of the throttle linkage/airbox region to about 600rpm for accurately checking the timing via a strobe lamp. The CP (pre '73 150bhp model) 2.5 PI engine states 11-degrees before top-dead-centre timing in the original Triumph handbook. ![]() I am running a fully restored 1969 TR6 and have dumped the Lumenition electronic ignition for a modern electronic ignition system plus Lucas sports coil. ![]() It won't turn into a turbo or anything but when it is right it feels right. Hence the ear approach I found best on mine. But getting electronic ignition on, gives a better spark and is said to be more accurate (although some will debate, most accept). These engines are old, a bit slack in tolerances. ![]() Some Lucas distributors have a little wheel on the side which can take if forwards and back by 1/10 of a degree. Strobe, to correct advance 8ish degrees on mine and took her out for a thrill and edged it forward to pink and then backed off. So marking on side of distributor became useless and needed new marks. If you fit electronic ignition, you need to really whack the distributor surprising forward in my Triumph. A timing gun gets you somewhere handy but fine tune as above. Don't be fixated on degrees, fixate on the running of the engine. Different cars have different advance retard requirements anyway. It really is about running the car, get it to pink and back off. ![]() As far as I know it is best to do it the way described above. ![]()
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